Wednesday, November 18, 2009
No pictures, no videos, and actually not much surf. Just sharing some stoke. I had no plans to handplane today. Was tired, worked most of the night. Surf forecast wasn't very promising. I dropped the gremlins off at school and headed down to the reef. Brought the longboard and my small wave shortboard. When I arrived, tide was pretty high as expected. Going higher. I was out of town for the last week and since their is supposed surf on the horizon, I wanted to paddle out today to loosen the muscles. For some reason I always feel better when their is surf, if I surf the day before. No real logic to that, just the way it is. The surf was pretty small, but from reports on the beach, twice as big as yesterday. Not enough for the shorty, so I paddled the Log out. Surfed for about 20 minutes. Most of the waves would peak up nicely then get really fat after a quick section. This section was too high and tight to do much on a log. Not really enough time to get to the nose. I did see a glimpse of things that were possibly planeable. After 20 minutes I went in. Normally I would head home and call it a day. Instead I grabbed the plane. I needed a workout, and if I didn't catch any waves, at least I could claim that I swam around a while. I swam out, and low and behold caught numerous fun waves with the plane. I am so stoked on planing right now. My body got a real good workout from treading water and swimming for an hour and a half, and I caught some fun waves in the meantime. Now it's time for a nap.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
I made these three boards for John, Aaron, Matt, and Dave. There was a fourth board, but, I had my first throwaway due to a stupid error. The replacement should be coming to em in a few days. They've done a lot for my wife and I over the last few years. It was nice to return the favor. They are better known as the guys that founded and run Matuse Wetsuits. At my age, it doesn't really pay to push one brand over another. I've seen brands and models come and go, each better than the next. What I CAN say about Matuse is that they have made my winter life so much more enjoyable. More enjoyable than any other change in wetsuit design in the last 25 years. A few years ago, I was nearly 40. When winter came around and I had to put a fullsuit on, I actually felt my age for the first time. Slow, stiff, and not motivated. The thing that changed that was their wetsuits. They were light, flexible, and most importantly warm. I started feeling and surfing like I was 18 again. The suits have only gotten better and I can't wait to try out the new front zip when it comes out soon. Thanks again guys.